Centella asiatica is one of the fastest-growing ingredient requests in B2B skincare procurement, and it is easy to see why. Brands want a plant-derived active that supports moisture and comfort while appealing to consumers who scan INCI lists for familiar names. This guide breaks down what centella actually is, what concentration to specify in a private label formula, what the US and EU rules require, and how to evaluate a supplier's centella product before you commit to production.
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Centella asiatica is a low-growing herb in the Apiaceae family, also sold under the names gotu kola, cica, tiger grass, or pennywort. It has a long history of use across South and Southeast Asia, and in recent years it has moved into the mainstream through K-beauty routines, where "cica" became a household shorthand for gentle, barrier-friendly skincare.
What actually ends up in a cosmetic formula is not the whole plant, but a standardized leaf extract or isolated triterpenoids. The compounds buyers ask about most are:
From a brand perspective, centella earns its shelf space for three reasons. It carries a consumer-recognizable name that does not require heavy education. It supports a gentle, skin-comfort positioning that fits sensitive-skin marketing. And it pairs naturally with clean-beauty claims, which is why so many centella products — including Lanthome's centella nourishing fine line smoother treatment — are built as paraben-free formulas aimed at the Face Care category.
In leave-on formulations, centella extract is commonly used to support skin comfort and hydration appearance. Peer-reviewed research on its triterpenoids, indexed through PubMed, has examined how these compounds behave in skin cell models. In cosmetics, the practical use is simpler: centella is designed to support the skin's moisture balance and comfort, subject to the overall formulation and stability testing.
Most "cica" products target consumers whose skin reacts easily to active ingredients. Formulators use centella as the gentle anchor of a formula — the ingredient the brand leads with — while the rest of the system (emollients, humectants, preservative) does the functional work. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review program assesses the safety of cosmetic ingredients, and centella asiatica and its triterpenes are well-established in the cosmetic ingredient landscape.
You will often see centella products, such as the centella treatment listed at Lanthome, positioned around fine lines and pores. Be precise on labels: cosmetic language like "designed to improve the appearance of fine lines" or "helps support skin smoothness" is the safe territory. Words like "reduces" in the context of disease or medical conditions cross into drug-claim territory and should be avoided.
"Centella" is a family, not a single ingredient, so a private label brief should name the exact form and a target range. The ranges below reflect what is commonly used in leave-on formulas; every formula remains subject to formulation and stability testing.
| Ingredient form | Common use range (leave-on) | Typical role | Specification note |
|---|---|---|---|
| Standardized centella extract | 1–5% | Overall comfort and moisture story | Ask for total triterpene content; 2–4% standardization is common |
| Madecassoside (isolated) | 0.1–1% | Focused "cica active" narrative | Poorly water-soluble; confirm solubilization system |
| Asiaticoside | 0.1–0.5% | Paired with madecassoside | Usually specified as a blend ratio |
| TF-CA (4-triterpene complex) | 1–3% | Complete-complex claim | Request the exact ratio on the spec sheet |
Three formulation details matter more than the percentage itself:
Cosmetics in the US are regulated under the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act, as summarized on the FDA cosmetics laws page. Two points matter for a centella product:
In the EU, every cosmetic product needs a complete Cosmetic Product Safety Report (CPSR) prepared with a qualified safety assessor, in line with Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009. Centella asiatica extract is not listed among the prohibited or restricted substances in the regulation's annexes — though you should always verify the current annex versions before finalizing a formula. GMP compliance under ISO 22716 and Annex VII labeling rules apply to the finished product, including the INCI list and the responsible person's address.
Practical takeaway: a serious OEM partner will produce, or coordinate, the CPSR and label review for you. Ask for the process in writing before you sign off on a formula.
Centella is one of the most pairing-friendly actives in cosmetic formulation, which is exactly why it appears in so many multi-ingredient serums and sets.
| Partner active | Why brands pair them | Usage note |
|---|---|---|
| Niacinamide (2–5%) | Tone-and-comfort story in one bottle | One of the most common centella pairings in K-beauty serums |
| Hyaluronic acid | Layered hydration benefit | Complements centella's moisture-support positioning |
| Peptides (including copper peptides) | Age-defying narrative without harsh actives | For copper peptides, confirm chelation compatibility with other ingredients |
| Retinol / bakuchiol | "Gentle retinol" routine marketing | Centella is often formulated as a comfort co-ingredient; separate application for reactive skin |
| AHA / BHA (low %) | Exfoliation plus calm | Different pH needs — usually separate products rather than one formula |
| Vitamin C | Antioxidant morning routine | Use a stable derivative or split into AM/PM steps in a set |
If you are building a routine set rather than a single SKU, centella works well as the "every night, everyone" step while stronger actives occupy the specialist slots. For brands extending beyond a single product, pairing a centella serum with a ceramide-based barrier cream is a proven line-extension move — Lanthome's 5-ceramide complex barrier repair cream is a good example of the complementary position.
Use this checklist before you place a bulk order for any centella product:
A supplier that can answer items 1 through 5 in writing has already passed most of the evaluation.
Yes. Gotu kola is the common name for the plant Centella asiatica, and the extract used in skincare comes from its leaves. "Cica" is the marketing shorthand brands use for centella-based products.
Standardized centella extract most commonly appears in the 1–5% range in leave-on products, while isolated madecassoside is frequently used at 0.1–1%. The right target depends on the extract's standardization level and the rest of the formula.
Both pairings are common. Niacinamide and centella are frequently combined in a single serum. For retinol, centella is often included as a comfort-supporting co-ingredient, or used in a separate step for more reactive skin.
Centella is one of the most requested ingredients for sensitive-skin positioning because it supports a gentle formula narrative. As with any formula, suitability for your audience should be confirmed through patch testing and stability data, and claims should stay in cosmetic language.
In the US, cosmetic ingredients like centella do not require pre-market approval, but safety responsibility and MoCRA registration apply. In the EU, the finished product needs a CPSR under Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009. A professional OEM partner should walk you through both paths.
About the Author
This article was prepared by the Lanthome skincare manufacturing team, with experience in private label formulation, packaging development, quality control, and international OEM/ODM projects.
